I have a 1993 Silverado 3500HD 6.5L turbo diesel with 72000 miles.(automatic transmission) I bought it 7 years ago with only 51000 miles. I have used it almost exclusively for pulling a 3 horse trailer ( Corn-pro and for the last year a Double D) steel trailer. There are no oil leaks or unusual smoking.
This year I have had to rebuild the transmission due to a TPS failure. It failed again so the transmission mechanic sent it to the chevy dealer to replace the sensor that controls the TPS sensor. (my regular mechanic could not get access to a new sensor). The tranny now is working fine.
I drove it on several day trips and a long trip with no problem. However on my last day trip I noticed an appreciable loss of engine power. Ir seemed the engine would rev up without any thrust after changing gears. I returned to the tranny mechanic and we took it for a spin. He agreed with me, but his computer said the tranny was ok. The computer would not read engine faults, so he suggested I go to the dealer and and have them use their computer for the engine and possibly turbo.
The Chevy TECH (not mechanic) wanted to drill a hole in my engine block to install a computer port so his computer could "read" my turbo.No guarantee of a successful read, but install would cost at least $300. I said no, and took it back to my diesel mechanic.
This mechanic, Bruce, was able to computer check engine and turbo and both came up fine. He took apart the turbo and all seals looked good. The fin or fan blade was not stuck and it was clean inside so he was very comfortable with saying that it was working fine. He decided to change the fuel filter while he had it all apart - It had not quite a year since the change.
It does seem to have more thrust or power. I can hear the turbo - which may relate to the fact that the transmission had been going bad so I was not getting the right power before and all sounds different.
This weekend after getting it back again I was going up the mountain (Lover's Leap in Stuart Virginia) I was in 3rd gear, AC turned off and going between 20-25 mph. The temp gauge was heading for red. I eased off when I could and kept it below red, but I was nervous. I had fresh coolant in the radiator and there was no steam.
Just past the top I stopped to go to the restroom and relax- When I turned off the engine, the temperature gauge was still high bit not in the red. 30 minutes later, the engine would not start. I know now I should have left the engine on to cool. It took 2 hours to cool off enough to start.
Is the almost overheating normal? Is the failure to restart a hot engine normal or is there a correction/repair needed?
Is the turbo sound normal? Is there a way to boost the turbo power? I have a link to Heath Diesel for a turbo booster attachment.
Friends have told me to get rid of the truck; one says it is from the trouble years for chevy (others have told me it is a great truck, one of the best)
Would Mr. Truck trade this one in or keep it as a classic and keep repairing the little things? At what point up to complete engine failure to I give in?
Posted 2010-09-18 12:16 AM (#5073 - in reply to #5068) Subject: RE: 93 Chevy 3500HD
Sorry I'm late here but I have been looking over some information about this engine.
1st, how does a TPS failure equal needing to rebuild the transmission? This is a new one for me. These trucks have an actual seperate computer just for the transmissions that are the biggest problems in these trucks.
2nd, Yes it could cause damage by turning off the truck when it is that hot. If the the temp gauge is high it is better to let the truck idle for a little while before shutting it down. (even if it is overheating, it will cool down faster). Just because your coolant looks good means nothing when other items need to be checked. I would replace the t-stat and water pump. With only 70-k miles on a 93 model truck you stand more of a chance of things going bad from setting. Seals drying out, t-stats sticking, etc.
FYI, the no start problem was more than likely the little black box on the side of the injector pump. Injector drive module, (will shut off fuel in high heat conditions) Heath diesel does offer a remote mount for these that is a great buy and problem solver.
3rd, never in my life heard of drilling a hole in the block to read codes. I would find another dealer and FAST.
I am skipping around with your post now so stay with me... Unless you are willing to do other things to your truck you will be wasting money on the boost deal from Heath. These engines are built to last and was built with low horse power ratings for a reason.
With the low quailty fuel that is being pumped to us now you really should change you fuel filter more often.
Here is my opinion and what I would do.
Change the water pump and t-stat, new fuel filter, new lift pump (located on frame rail under driverside) new air filter and remove the baffle from the inner fender, 3" to 4"exhaust from the downpipe back and last on the list would be the remote kit for injector drive module. With the first couple of things done the last thing would really not be needed but I would at least replace the module.
As far as the exhaust goes, you do not have to spend big money for a fancy kit. I have used take off parts from Ford and Dodges for the tailpipe and most muffles shop will have take off tailpipes and 3" and 4" pipes instock, I did a 2000 Chevrolet 3500 with a 6.5L diesel 3 weeks ago for $150.00 for the exhaust.
Hope this helps, if you need something else just let me know.